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Water damage, the good the bad and other upgrades
#1
When I bought my rv a couple of months ago, I was told that the roof had been resealed, but when I was on the roof replacing a broken vent with a fantastic fan, I noticed that the roof had not been resealed for a very long time. When I started looking around I saw that the roof had separated from the front of the rv. One of many lies that the previous owner told me. It also explains why I could smell a musty smell in the rv.

Now the good part, sort of. The over cab part of my rv is fiberglass, so the water that got inside (and there was a lot) couldn`t rot out the whole over head bed area. So, I started carefully taking everything a part, and once I got the top layer of wood removed the damage was very apparent. There was foam board insulation on the right and left sides of the bed area, its in like new condition and reusable.

In the center was fiberglass insulation, and it was soaking wet. With the foam board and fiberglass insulation removed the damage was exposed, and its bad, but not as bad as some that I have seen on youtube. There was originally a bottom layer of half inch plywood, but its beyond destroyed, I was using a screw driver to remove it in pieces. The frame support on top of the plywood is still solid and intact from what I have seen so far.

Below what was left of the plywood was an inch of standing water, so I got some old bath towels in there to soak up the water.
I am still in the demolition phase and only have the weekends to work on it, but I`m in no hurry.

[Image: water%20leak%20001_zpsltyoqbir.jpg]
[Image: water%20leak%20005_zpsffr9usr3.jpg]
[Image: water%20leak%20007_zpsen1i7bci.jpg]
[Image: water%20leak%20010_zpsl1tekbhk.jpg]
1984 Cobra Class C 26'
On E 350 Chassis 
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#2
Don't know how hard it is to remove that damaged perimeter wood, but once it dries out you might keep wood restorer products in mind. I think they are basically a thin epoxy that will absorb into rotted wood...I've had occation to use it in the past and been surprised how functional the results were...

Ford E450 Box Truck RV Conversion
...but no pictures thanks to Photobucket...
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#3
Nasty!

It may be salvageable, but it depends on your skill set, tools available and wither you have a place to work on it.

A Kreg Pocket Hole Jig and some marine grade plywood may be all that's needed.

A Moisture Meter is a must when purchasing a used RV.
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The following 5 users say Thank You to LoupGarou for this post:
Grizzly708 (10-07-2017), Jahmai (05-30-2017), Brian_and_Jesse (03-17-2017), introverting (10-23-2016), Matlock (10-17-2016)
#4
Sometimes in fiberglass construction, the wood is the source of structural strength.
The fiberglass is actually molded around the wood bonding all into one unit.

It can be extremely diffucult to remove the old wood and install new wood without sacrificing structural strength.

This is why some nice looking boats become trash, the main wood structure inside the fiberglass rotted away.

Figure out what you have and how to rebuild it so as not to have future sagging and cracking issues.

Dave
2003 Dodge 5.2 LWB Conversion Van in NJ
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#5
Wow! That looks bad! I'm glad you have the time to work on it!
I'd like to give myself a few negative ratings, because I am such a big meanie. The forum won't allow it. Feel free!

Cyndi (made it across the cattle guard)
http://rvlyeverafter.blogspot.com/

"I reject your reality and substitute my own."
~ Adam Savage
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#6
(10-17-2016, 05:04 AM)djkeev Wrote: Sometimes in fiberglass construction, the wood is the source of structural strength.
The fiberglass is actually molded around the wood bonding all into one unit.

It can be extremely diffucult to remove the old wood and install new wood without sacrificing structural strength.

This is why some nice looking boats become trash, the main wood structure inside the fiberglass rotted away.

Figure out what you have and how to rebuild it so as not to have future sagging and cracking issues.

Dave
I still have more demolition to do, but so far the wood structure is separate from the nose cap.
1984 Cobra Class C 26'
On E 350 Chassis 
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#7
If the window and marker light caulking hasn't been redone then that's one of the first places I'd look. You might consider pulling out one of the front windows and reseal/caulk it before you get into the finish work inside. If one window is leaking then they all need looked at. If they didn't reseal the roof then you can guess that no exterior water sealing was done.

Just my ol 2¢
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#8
I wouldn't just consider it, I'd pull ALL the windows and all the marker lights and reinstall them with fresh caulking.

I can't begin to tell you how many fiberglass RV's I've seen in parks and dealerships, and you can stand there and see the delamination going on at tail lights/marker lights/window edges, etc. etc. A lot of owners have the roof work done and then can't figure out where the rot is coming from because they didn't realize that EVERY opening is a possible source of penetration.
Worry is a misuse of imagination!
 
Build link: http://www.cheaprvliving.com/forums/Thre...g-Arabella
Full-timer again as of November 24, 2015 - 14 glorious years on the road before that!



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The following 2 users say Thank You to Almost There for this post:
wheels (08-10-2017), Matlock (10-17-2016)
#9
eww,somebody has some work to do,on the marker lights,you should be able to find new gaskets
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#10
All of the windows need to be resealed, and all of the marker lights need to be replaced, that`s the main priority right now.
I only have the weekends to work on it, and its been raining here for over a week. If its not raining this weekend I`m going to
try and get as many windows as I can resealed.

I wish I had a place to park the rv out of the weather to work on it, but I don`t.
1984 Cobra Class C 26'
On E 350 Chassis 
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