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Max Burton fridge/freezer
#31
How do you convert wh (watt hours) to ah (amp hours) ?
How many ah did it use in the 24 hour period?
GuitarVanMan
Have guitar will travel.
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The following 1 user says Thank You to Tomcor for this post:
judykazooty (07-26-2017)
#32
Watts divides by (12) volts ==> Amps
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Ballenxj (04-30-2017)
#33
(04-29-2017, 10:42 PM)Tomcor Wrote: How do you convert wh (watt hours) to ah (amp hours) ?
How many ah did it use in the 24 hour period?
As previously stated, divide Wh by voltage (~12.5) to get ah.
And in the 24 hour period my meter logged about 240 Ah so divided by 12.5 V gives 19.2 Ah...
Andrew
Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what to have for dinner. Liberty is a well-armed lamb contesting the vote. -- Benjamin Franklin (attrib.)
[Image: RVNsvc1966.jpg]
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#34
(04-30-2017, 03:18 PM)anm Wrote: As previously stated, divide Wh by voltage (~12.5) to get ah.
And in the 24 hour period my meter logged about 240 Wh so divided by 12.5 V gives 19.2 Ah...

or about 0.8 AH consumed each hour.

Does the compressor on your fridge start out a cycle at say 35 watts and finish up at about 27 watts by the end of the cycle, or is it steady wattage draw the whole time the compressor is running?

My wattmeter only counts upto 64AH before flippinig back to zero, so I was using about 3 days to get an average consumption of 0.62 during my test.  I was adding 1AH to the readings every 24 hours over what the wattmeter displayed.

I hope to add another bulb seal to my door and increase the door insulation at some point too, despite already low consumption numbers.

My numbers were with about 1/2 inch of frost build up on cold plate, which reduces efficiency as the heat drawn from box has to get through the insulating ice layer, which takes more energy.
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#35
(04-30-2017, 04:02 PM)SternWake Wrote: or about 0.8 AH consumed each hour.

Does the compressor on your fridge start out a cycle at say 35 watts and finish up at about 27 watts by the end of the cycle, or is it steady wattage draw the whole time the compressor is running?
...

There is some variation in the power drawn but I was assuming it was due to the inrush when the compressor starts. I'll try monitoring the meter and see if it does that...
Andrew
Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what to have for dinner. Liberty is a well-armed lamb contesting the vote. -- Benjamin Franklin (attrib.)
[Image: RVNsvc1966.jpg]
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#36
(04-30-2017, 04:02 PM)SternWake Wrote: ...
Does the compressor on your fridge start out a cycle at say 35 watts and finish up at about 27 watts by the end of the cycle, or is it steady wattage draw the whole time the compressor is running?
...

Here are the readings I got:
42.5 W at start, this figure varies quite a bit due to exactly when the reading is taken (not under my control) in relation to when the compressor switches on, it varies anywhere from 35 to 57 W, we could probably assume the higher figure for the inrush.
Then the power slowly builds up, 13.7, 16.2, 18.8, 24, 27.5, 30, 32, 33.7 W, this rise in wattage occurs over a few seconds and I think is due to me running the freezer on the A/C power supply plugged into household current.
And it peaks at around 35.4 +- 5 W until the compressor turns off.

I'll charge up my jumpstart battery and try running it off that...
Andrew
Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what to have for dinner. Liberty is a well-armed lamb contesting the vote. -- Benjamin Franklin (attrib.)
[Image: RVNsvc1966.jpg]
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#37
Interesting.

My wattmeter shows a peak amps and peak watts. My peak watts were 56.5 IIRC. My vfc51is, after the surge, starts at 37 watts and tapers to 27 watts about 5 minutes later at end of compressor cycle.

I have one wattmeter, that when on my schumacher smart charger, the readings jump all around 90% of the time when schumacher is seeking a voltage. I bring this up as the schumacher is a pretty dirty power supply. If you are running your fridge from an ac/dc power supply perhaps it too is dirty and the wattmeter on the DC output, is getting confused by the noise. I have other wattmeters unaffected by dirty schumacher.

Your jumpstarter pack should always be top charged, like all resting lead acid batteries. Any lead acid battery sitting at less than full charge is losing capacity at a greater rate than a fully charged one. the lower and longer the faster the capacity loss and with that goes the loss of cranking amps, whch might render the jumper pack useless in its original intended use, when required.
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#38
I noticed that the Max Burton unit is now $325 up from $295
Sparky created, (Sparkles on some Saturday nights)  Max the Wonder puppy approved

2011 Ameri-lite 25 ft bunkhouse with 750w of solar and a 675 Ah bank
2003 Ford Expedition with 435w of tilting solar.
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#39
(05-01-2017, 12:59 PM)jimindenver Wrote: I noticed that the Max Burton unit is now $325 up from $295

Yeah it is, but they also have the 53 qt fridge/freezer for $359 (on eBay), either seems like a good deal to me...
Andrew
Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what to have for dinner. Liberty is a well-armed lamb contesting the vote. -- Benjamin Franklin (attrib.)
[Image: RVNsvc1966.jpg]
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#40
(05-01-2017, 10:48 AM)SternWake Wrote: ...
Your jumpstarter pack should always be top charged, like all resting lead acid batteries.  Any lead acid battery sitting at less than full charge is losing capacity at a greater rate than a fully charged one.  the lower and longer the faster the capacity loss and with that goes the loss of cranking amps, whch might render the jumper pack useless in its original intended use, when required.

Yes well I think it's finally died, I would not be able to start a car with it, though I can briefly power a device that needs a low current draw...
Andrew
Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what to have for dinner. Liberty is a well-armed lamb contesting the vote. -- Benjamin Franklin (attrib.)
[Image: RVNsvc1966.jpg]
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