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Rear Ventilation system in E350 Passenger Van?
#11
(10-25-2017, 01:07 PM)closeanuf Wrote: More than likely you have heat back there too.  It would be very easy to re-direct the air and get rid of all that  plastic trim.  You can't believe how much room is behind them and if you are careful taking them out you could always replace them.  Take the seatbelts out with a T-50 torks bit, pull on the top panels around the windows and they should just be held in with clips that will allow you to put them back in.  When you get the upper panels out you will see phillips head screws and then take out the bottom part of the seat belts.  I'm gonna send you a PM

well, I didn't read this til afterward... I called the mechanic friend and because of our combined schedules he wasn't going to be able to offer advice til next weekend. But I'm not known for being patient in situations like these... Smile  It's going to the paint shop this friday and I really wanted to have a decent amount done beforehand. 

I just said "f" it. lol  It's not rocket science and people have to get in these spaces to replace the stupid seat belts somehow. The one that kept alluding me was the cap on the drivers seatbelt - because that had to come off before the top paneling could be removed. Once I FINALLY figured out how to get that silly thing off (which wasn't that hard), everything else was a piece of cake. 

Here's the result. I'll deal with the head liner tomorrow. But, yes I figure like drysailor suggested, I would just cap things off and redirect. I do want to have an A/C tech look at it though and see exactly how much I can get rid of because on top of the wheel well, there is another metal pipe going into it. 

And YES, there is SO much room behind those ducts. I feel so much better now all that paneling is gone!


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#12
There should be 2 lines and those are the heater lines.  That square panel toward the front with the sticked on it is probably where the heater core is.
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lifemonkey (10-25-2017)
#13
I've uploaded my initial tear down video to youtube if anyone is interested.. https://youtu.be/kEiV8LQAnU4

Just keep in mind I've torn apart computers for a living... not cars.  Cool Angel
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blackmajik2049 (12-28-2017)
#14
(10-26-2017, 01:23 AM)lifemonkey Wrote: I've uploaded my initial tear down video to youtube if anyone is interested.. https://youtu.be/kEiV8LQAnU4

Just keep in mind I've torn apart computers for a living... not cars.  Cool Angel

Good video - I've wondered what the inside of my walls looked like...........
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lifemonkey (10-27-2017), This world isn't home (10-27-2017)
#15
I'm trying to do something similar with an E-150 passenger van. I plan on extending the duct work into my high top, and keeping all the original lighting components. Going to attempt to install all of them behind a plywood / luan ceiling with insulation. Not sure what I'm going to do about the rear unit and floorboard vents though. I think you can get basic ducting materials at home depot. I'm also going to attempt to build the rear bed right on top of it, but I'm a little worried about overheating the unit by essentially keeping it in a plywood box. I may add some simple metal vents to the bed structure near the rear. Total amateur here so any tips would be much appreciated! I will post my progress / anything I find here.
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#16
This is why my next van is a cargo van. Having to remove items not desired is such a pain.
"Today, most of the good people are afraid to be good. They strive to be broadminded and tolerant. It is fashionable to be tolerant but mostly tolerant of evil and this new code has reached the proportions of demanding intolerance of good."
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#17
Wink 
(12-28-2017, 02:30 PM)blackmajik2049 Wrote: I'm trying to do something similar with an E-150 passenger van. I plan on extending the duct work into my high top, and keeping all the original lighting components. Going to attempt to install all of them behind a plywood / luan ceiling with insulation. Not sure what I'm going to do about the rear unit and floorboard vents though. I think you can get basic ducting materials at home depot. I'm also going to attempt to build the rear bed right on top of it, but I'm a little worried about overheating the unit by essentially keeping it in a plywood box. I may add some simple metal vents to the bed structure near the rear. Total amateur here so any tips would be much appreciated! I will post my progress / anything I find here.

I am doing the same thing. I have an e350 Passenger van and I am choosing to keep the rear heater/ac unit.  I am just going to build a cabinet around it as sort of a disguise and vent the cabinet into the cabin.  I am not an expert but I am pretty skilled with tools, so I am confident I can make it work, and make it look like it was made that way.  Smile The way they had that paneling around the unit was essentially the same thing. If I must, I will even put a vent leading to the outside of the van just as an added precaution to preventing any possible overheating.  (You can see the exterior vent I am referring to here: http://amzn.to/2Co7F4c

My thoughts are that I will hit up the blue/orange box store for some flexible ducting, and the bottom opening will be routed under the bed , and the opening off to the right will be routed behind the cabinets. This may change once I start working on it but like I said, I am confident I can make it work. 

Good luck with your build.
Gone Vanping: Choose Adventure
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#18
On my 2000 E350 15 passenger van, the hot water solenoid had been stuck open for the last 8 years and last year I was driving up a very windey mountain road with a large wheel barrow in the back and it damaged the coil. I lost all the refrigerant. So when I started my build, I just removed the whole thing. If one was to decide to remove the rear unit, the refrigerant lines should only be disconnected at one point, as there is a less than $20 part to seal them up made for that point. As was noted above, it should only be done by someone skilled in HVAC.

Great video!
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#19
Working on the same problem with a friend in my E350 extended passenger van. A dedicated AC shop would be best.

We're doing this: 1) Get the freon drained at Jiffy Lube - this cost $140 and took a full hour (lots of freon!). 2) Friend had good conversations with parts manager at Ford dealership and brought the van in to double check parts needed. 3) Cost of parts ran $420. 4) Friend is going to try the removal and install of new parts (if that doesn't look doable, then back to dealership for this step). She is pretty darn handy, so hoping it will work out.

I see why people go with cargo vans and spend time/money on cutting holes & installing windows where needed. Removing everything from a passenger van has been more work than we expected. Those dang seat floor clamps (whatever the name is) are a real pain! Would be easier in a new van.

Best, Schwoebs
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