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Help me choose a next vehicle to build from scratch. Thinking diesel, 4wd...
#11
(12-26-2017, 05:36 PM)highdesertranger Wrote: '84-'87 here is some background.  

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Commercial...go_Vehicle

highdesertranger

I've been searching these trucks since you suggested them. I'm planning to search one out and check it out in person. Some of these are listed for $15k and more, but I'm not looking for someone's princess since I'm probably going to scrap the body anyway. Mind looking at these links and telling me if you have any first impressions? The ambulance versions are interesting since they already have a pass-through cut.... not certain if the dimensions of the box would work for me or not.

https://newlondon.craigslist.org/cto/d/c...31773.html

https://york.craigslist.org/cto/d/1986-c...08861.html

https://saltlakecity.craigslist.org/cto/...61278.html

https://fargo.craigslist.org/cto/d/cucv-...15766.html

https://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/cto/d/...58801.html

https://fortmyers.craigslist.org/chl/cto...91533.html

https://omaha.craigslist.org/cto/d/1986-...76467.html
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#12
going to make me work on this one.

1. rust bucket, the body is toast. needs a new body cab and all.
2. I like this one. reasonable price. note, the ones with PTO drives have the NP 205 transfer case which is the best most heavy duty TC put in light trucks.
3. again I like, little high on the price. you could scrap the genny's and sell the beds on both of these, #2&3.
4. well it sure would stand out. not bad overall as far as I can tell.
5. this one could go either way. wonder what's up with the axle.
6. lifted way to high. the front driveshaft is not in because of the driveshaft angle. I don't like trucks that other people lift because most don't know what they are doing.
7. this guy ruined this truck. the bad, lifted ad says 4" looks more to me. it has a suspension lift and a body lift. I hate body lifts more than 1 inch. then they bobbed the frame right at the rear spring rear hanger. they moved the location of the rear shocks. changer the location of the fuel tank. the good, some one swapped in a SM 465 and a NP 205 great combo very heavy duty.

a little more info. all these trucks have a hybrid 24/12 volt electrical system. the smart thing to do is to convert them to 12 volt, not a hard conversion they have 2 alternators a 24 and a 12 and a 24 volt starter. everything else is standard 12v. all these trucks have low mileage.

the weak point on these engines is the harmonic balancer. plan on doing that right off the bat. the best thing you can do is to put a Fluid Dampener on it but they are pricy about 450 bucks but they last forever and never fail.

highdesertranger
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#13
so what the diff between the military and a plain square body? just dont see the 6.2 in civilian models?

and if tmg is going this route what about any 4x4 diesel pickup and just toss the bed and build a house?

me myself and i prefer commercial vehicles over passenger because of stronger drivetrain and over all beefer build quality

4bt would be the engine i would look for and remember,without a turbo diesels are pretty gutless,non turbo 6.2 is like 140 hp and around 200 torques,less then my 305 gasser

and the big one,have you spent time around a diesel?while in liquid form it doesnt bother me but the exhaust nauseates me,i can smell my neighbors a couple hundred feet away when he starts it up
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#14
you could get the 6.2 from 1982 until 1993 in all the C/K trucks, vans, it also came in step vans and motor homes, 91-92 H1 Hummer, and of course the military hmmwv Humvee.

after 93 it was replaced with the 6.5 virtually the same engine until 2000-2001. it is still in production for the Humvee.

that means it's been in production for 36 years and still going. you can buy brand new engines from several distributors for between 5-8k, AM General is the current manufacturer. plus there is a large military surplus of used engines, making it by far the most affordable diesel engine out there. all parts are still available.

oh yeah, there is also a lot of marine 6.2's and 6.5's.

highdesertranger
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#15
Main differences between a CUCV pickup and regular 6.2l k30 is the 12v/24v dual voltage electrical system and 4.56 axle gears on a diesel, which IIRC was only on gas k30s.


Look for the M1010 ambulance if you want a prebuilt 10' box with a pass-through to the cab.
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#16
I think the 4.56 were special order only on the civy version. all the K 30's that I have come across were 3.73 or 4.10. as a side note all the CUCV's had Detroit Lockers rear and Limited slip front axles. highdesertranger
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#17
Anyone know much about the CUCV and its limited speed and/or top speed of 55 MPH?

Here's an old listing from a seller who cites upgraded transmission and 75 MPH.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/vehicles-...cs/1291969
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#18
(12-26-2017, 04:02 PM)highdesertranger Wrote: if not then a Ford mechanical injected 7.3.  although not as simple or cheap as a GM it's a solid engine.

How do I know which years for the 7.3 were mechanical injected? This isn't my area of expertise. In my searching most discussion around 7.3 mechanical injection seems to be about converting newer engines to being mechanically injected. I assume the older models were mechanical at one time?

There are, of course, many more options for older Fords than there are CUCVs for sale.
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#19
7.3 IDI engines were available from 1988-1994. half way in 1994 came the 444E which is a 7.3 but a completely different injection system. I have a 444E and while still a good engine, but it's very complicated, harder to work on and parts like injectors are expensive. ask me how I know. highdesertranger
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The following 1 user says Thank You to highdesertranger for this post:
TMG51 (01-03-2018)
#20
I've found an 1987 suburban 3/4 ton 4x4 with the option of Dana 60 4.10 in the front and a full floater 14 bolt 4.10 rear ( I understand spring perches will need to moved). Currently has a crate 350 with TBI and had the 400 trans replaced with a 480E trans with an after market control box so lockup/overdrive which allows manual control, and have been offered manual shifting valve body mod as well. A 205 transfer case can be offered as well but requires an adaptor. Drive lines will be rebuilt as well as new interior with a pretty well rust free body(Desert tan) and frame. 16" eight lug wheels have older worn tires and barn doors were crudely welded in place of tailgate it orginally came with but function as well as all windows locks and doors. Around $4,000 but probably more like $5,000 the way my luck goes. It currently has stock 3/4 ton axles with a 4" lift which will be removed. I'm gonna use it to pull a 24' trailer whose total weight should be less than 6,000 lbs. What you all think? Sorry if this should be a new thread feel free to move.
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