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Too many options and decisions, flooring help, ideas, insight please.
#11
(12-29-2017, 06:28 PM)highdesertranger Wrote: with sheet aluminum diamond plate,  it's going to be cold as hell in the winter and hotter than hell in the summer.  highdesertranger

I guess it's going to have to be one of those things, 4 inches of R6 per inch polyiso is more than I've seen anybody else use and I don't see why diamond plate flooring on the inside would really make it all that much hotter especially on the other side of 3-4 inches of insulation.
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#12
I would just leave the floor as is, and seal out the nasties with the sheet aluminum.

Tearing out the whole floor can be way more work and structurally (near) impossible to do. The flooring is used to hold the framework true and square. 9 times out of 10 the frame is floored first, then the sidewalls are set on top the floor. So to completely remove the floor, you need to strip the walls off the trailer. Tweaking the frame is totally possible while ripping out the flooring. Which in turn makes everything weaker. The frame can twist, the tires wont run true, etc, etc.
Disturbing the flooring will also emit lots of yucky dust and chemicals. You will die.

Lay in some tight fitting aluminum panels, seal everything with a hypoallergenic caulk, and you have your  safe zone.
PS- you're typing on a computer/phone  made from all kinds of petrochems???
So, I wont expect a reply. Rolleyes
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#13
I'm using a quantum computer so we're good : )  It's always funny though, if I said I had no arms as a double amputee war vet people wouldn't dare make the same jokes.  Guess it's good to be able to make fun of yourself.  

Maybe you're talking about super cheap trailers versus a higher end full tube framed one.  I know good trailer companies will sell you just the framed out version with no sides or floors but the low end companies that use top hat framing and such can't as they would fall apart.  If I tweak 5" a boxed aluminium frame pulling out the floor I think it's time to get a new trailer!
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#14
(12-30-2017, 05:33 AM)TucsonAZ Wrote: I guess it's going to have to be one of those things, 4 inches of R6 per inch polyiso is more than I've seen anybody else use and I don't see why diamond plate flooring on the inside would really make it all that much hotter especially on the other side of 3-4 inches of insulation.
4" polyiso is a lot for the floor unless you're super-insulating for very efficient aircon in extreme heat.

For insulation against extreme cold, I would put 4" on the ceiling, 3" on the walls and 2" on the floor. Less but keep proportions if space is limited.

If both, then even all 'round.

Metal on the outside, whether sheets or tubing, or even on the inside is not a problem in itself.

The issue of metal conductivity is only relevant if penetrating what should be a continuous envelope of insulation, aka thermal bridging.

Obviously a rug or rubber matting would be more comfortable over metal in a living space.

A composite sandwich is a great approach, but you'd need to research adhesives, you may be sensitive to some of the newer high tech ones.
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#15
(12-29-2017, 06:28 PM)highdesertranger Wrote: with sheet aluminum diamond plate,  it's going to be cold as hell in the winter and hotter than hell in the summer.  highdesertranger

Of ALL metals, with good strength and compact structures, AL would be the mildest conductor of heat, etc... And thin decor diamond plate would not have much metal mass to conduct anything significantly. I am not arguing any specific point, but AL almost seems neutral to the environment and you can fit 25% more living work stations with strong thin metal walls in the van work space.

What materials are you suggesting? Pretty much oem automotive interiors?

I was thinking similar to Diamond plate in strategic rub-areas, but sometimes I get tunneled in my thinking because there is so much to do in designing vehicle systems. But even automotive interiors will burn you when it's hot. Fortunately, my no window van stays pretty comfortable even in the South, so far (in hot or cold); so I don't want to screw that up in the process!!

Thanks  Big Grin
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#16
Thickness of the plate makes a difference in retaining temps (thermal mass) but *not* in conducting heat.

As long as your interior plating is *not* connected to the outside by metal (thermal bridging), "floating" separated by a good continuous insulation envelope and vapor barrier, use of metal inside should not be a problem.
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