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Battery
#11
bad info in this thread,
1. equalization is not charging to 100%. equalization is deliberately overcharging to break up sulfation and to equalize the specific gravity in each cell. a lot of AGM batteries will be damaged from equalization. Lifelines are an exception.
2. most RV refrigerators are 2 or 3 way meaning they run on 120v and propane(2way) or 12v, 120v, and propane(3 way). running them off electricity is very inefficient. most 12v compressor refrigerators are very efficient. I have used both and for me there is no comparison a 12v compressor refrigerator beats an RV refrigerator hands down. sun light is free propane is not. highdesertranger
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#12
(12-31-2017, 05:42 PM)highdesertranger Wrote:  most 12v compressor refrigerators are very efficient.  I have used both and for me there is no comparison a 12v compressor refrigerator beats an RV refrigerator hands down.  sun light is free propane is not.  highdesertranger

Is it possible to get a decent one for around $400.? It would be for one person, so does not have to be too big. Does it use much battery power running 24 hours a day?
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#13
Sometimes you see good sales new, but also check Craigslist.

Engels last forever.
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#14
Back on thread. Yes, that battery would be ok for your existing panel. If it would be ok for your electrical needs is a different question. The best advise here is to be sure to charge the battery.
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#15
(12-31-2017, 05:54 PM)GeorgiePorgie Wrote: Is it possible to get a decent one for around $400.? It would be for one person, so does not have to be too big. Does it use much battery power running 24 hours a day?

Dyers has the Dometic CC-40 for $335.  I believe the difference in this model is that it DOES not have the legendary Danfoss compressor.  My use is intermittent, so it was a no brainer for me.  So far so good.

I use it to freeze water bottles which I then cycle through a traditional cooler which I use as my refrigerator.
-Douglas Tooley

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#16
(01-01-2018, 10:22 AM)DLTooley Wrote: I use it to freeze water bottles which I then cycle through a traditional cooler which I use as my refrigerator.

That has been mathematically proven to be the least efficient way of obtaining refrigeration.

Taking water down to freezing temps takes more energy than maintaining a safe refrigerator temperature.
Worry is a misuse of imagination!
 
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Full-timer again as of November 24, 2015 - 14 glorious years on the road before that!



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#17
Have enough solar to cover the power needed to freeze the water and it becomes a none issue. I can put water bottles in my freezer in the morning and have them frozen before nightfall. The batteries did not know they were in there just like they do not know when I turn on the electric water heater which is also considered not efficient.

On the other hand is the efficiency of cost and space. Having the power to take care of business means not having to spend the money on a second high dollar 12 volt fridge and a small cooler just for a few fresh items and water bottles can take up less space.

As always, there is no right or wrong, just people getting their needs met or not.
Sparky created, (Sparkles on some Saturday nights)  Max the Wonder puppy approved

2011 Ameri-lite 25 ft bunkhouse with 750w of solar and a 675 Ah bank
2003 Ford Expedition with 435w of tilting solar.
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#18
(12-31-2017, 03:12 PM)GaRay Wrote: The battery you are looking at is a marine battery and is not rated for deep cycle even though it says it is. Check the label and if it stayed cold cranking amps then it is not a deep cycle battery. A deep cycle battery is rated in amp/hours.

How do you know if it's a true deep cycle?  All the batteries seem to have both an ah rating and a cranking rating.
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#19
(01-01-2018, 11:25 AM)hausmutti Wrote: How do you know if it's a true deep cycle?  All the batteries seem to have both an ah rating and a cranking rating.

Floor scrubbing machines and golf carts use deep cycle batteries.  

Deep cycle batteries are taller to allow more space below the plates.  In normal use there is some shedding of plate material.  More space leaves room for more shedding before it builds up to the level where it short circuits the positive and negative plates.  

Deep cycle batteries will be heavier.  Dual purpose and starter batteries have more thinner plates.  Deep cycle batteries will have fewer thicker plates.  That means more lead and less separator material.

Otherwise it is hard to tell looking at the outside of a battery.  Cutting open the case to use a micrometer to measure plate thickness would not be appreciated by battery store owners.  

In my van I have a single battery for everything.  I got the biggest battery that would fit in the original location, group size 24.  I made a spread sheet to gather information.  I picked the battery that was the heaviest, the most amp hours, the least cold cranking amps.  After doing that I know that the battery I got has a sticker that is different from the same size starter battery.  The sticker may be the only difference.  

The way a battery gets treated makes a huge difference in how long it lasts.  A poorly treated "good" battery might die long before a well treated "bad" battery.  

If you need 50 amp hours then you need a 100 amp hour battery to only discharge 50%.  If you get a 200 amp hour battery that same 50 ah cycle is only 25%.  The battery should last longer.  With the 100 ah battery after it is used a while the capacity may be reduced to 90 amp hours.  Now the 50% limit is 45 amp hours.  Continuing to take 50 amp hours, more than 50%, isn't being nice to the battery.
You cannot bring about prosperity by discouraging thrift. 1 of Ten Cannots, Rev. William John Henry Boetcker, 1916.
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#20
From a trustworthy maker of true deep cycle batteries, you should be able to get a chart or table with their lab test results, shows

how many lifetime cycles the battery supports, replacement time defined as 20-hour AH capacity falling to 80% or rated

as compared to how deeply the batt is discharged. For comparison purposes, we usually use 50% DoD

The Deka / Duracell GCs are I believe rated around 800 cycles at 50%.

This is what I would consider at the bottom, a minimum starting point, for defining a true deep cycle battery.

Cycling more shallow, say only 20% DoD results in well over a thousand cycles, more deeply maybe only 300.

Further info http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/deep_cycle_battery
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