Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
Motorized bike, anyone have one?
#31
I had a beat up puch when I was a kid.  It was an automatic 2 speed, 50cc 2 stroke with pedals.  It could easily do 30mph and didn't have retarded small tires like scooters.

I am probably pointing out the obvious here but if you go with a 4 stroke the engine has to be about twice the size vs a 2 stroke for equal power.  If you are trying to stay within the 50cc limit I would stay away from 4 strokes unless you want to get run over by a car.

My puch looked kinda like this  http://www.oddjobmotors.com/puch.htm
Add Thank You Reply
#32
Hi bee

The Puch 'peds were legendary for their durability and there are many fans who are still using them on the road today.

The 2 stroke vs 4 stroke equation in small engines has gone through many changes over the years. For example, as a youngster I raced 2 stroke motocross, they were top of the heap. Since then though, the 4 stroke motocross bikes have come to completely dominate. 2 strokes do have simplicity as a virtue with fewer moving parts but they are noisier, can be smoky and you usually have to premix oil/gas on the smaller engines. Generally speaking for small engines, 2 strokes rev higher and are known for more zip at the top end but less low end torque. 4 strokes are known for low end torque and having more grunt pulling loads or climbing. Top speed for each though has a lot to do with how the bike is geared.

The modern micro 4 strokes I use, Robin Subaru or Honda, weigh around 8 lbs and have equal or better performance characteristics of any 2 stroke engine in the same displacement class. I have used both and have come to prefer the 4 because of noise and not mixing oil. Still, it's an old debate among gearheads with many fans of each type.
That is also the case among the choices of scooters, mopeds and motorized bikes. Each has their pluses and minuses and each has their devotees. There is no one right answer of course, each has their merits and to each their own.
My personal preference has come to be a MAB, motor assisted bicycle: start with a decent pedal bike and add a well engineered drive assembly, proper lighting and safety equipment. Done well, they are lightweight, usually around or under 50 lbs, safe, very reliable and a whole lot of fun. Plus, you can always pedal them just as a bicycle for exercise or if you should ever run out of gas ;-)





Add Thank You Reply
#33
wow,  i want one, just don't know what kind? .i think that for rv'er that boondock alot it would be great to get around with. so heres my question, what kind of a motorbike would be best for me? ( ie) a 60 year old man thats hasn't rode a bike of any kind in 40 years!!. i would want one big enough to ride on the highways and in the drit an rockey roads, but small enough so i could pick up, to put on a bumper rack or in back of a truck. fellow traveler gary 
Add Thank You Reply
#34
I don't think many people would want a motor assisted bicycle on the highways. Get a small motorcycle if you want hwy speeds like 40 and better. the little Honda 250's seem to be popular and Honda's have a reputation for reliability when used and cared for responsibly. Although, I'm pretty sure they are inline twins and not "v" twins. Another thing with the small 4 stroke engines for a motorized bicycle. Harbor freight has a 79cc  for around 100 bucks and when you get a three year replacement warranty with it (extended warranty costs extra) you can have a cheap way to make a motorized bicycle. Friction drive is easier to put together but, if you want off road tires, you should go with chain drive and get the chain hub that bolts to the inside of the wheel, not the spokes.
 
Add Thank You Reply
#35
thanks terry, i should of made myself more clear, i think a small dirtbike would be better for me,just don't what kind, i need it small enough to pickup an put on a bumper mount or rack. are throw in the back of a pickup? i guess maybe 125 cc range , what would a bike like that weigh? thanks again gary
Add Thank You Reply
#36
Gary, my Honda CT70 weighs 150lbs.  That's the lightest I could find.  250 lbs or so for a Yamaha TTR 225.  The Honda is just about the limit of what I want to lift up into the rack.  A Honda CT90 is a good pick also.
Add Thank You Reply
#37
 Personally, I don't see any real reason to go any faster than 20-30 MPH, especially in the woods, and a motorized bicycle would be a lot easier to haul around (50 lbs vs 150+) and maintain (cheaper and more readily available parts). I also have the option of pedaling the bike for exercise or if the engine breaks down. That's why I'm going the motorized bicycle route. ..Willy.
Add Thank You Reply
#38
Hi Terry
I agree completely that if one wants to ride at speeds above 30mph, a scooter or small motorcycle is a better choice. Most of the states that have a defined moped/motorized bicycle law have regs that say under 30mph is the legal limit. As I mentioned upthread, I can't emphasize that enough. It's good for the sport and hopefully will keep these things from being legislated out of existence. I do not condone turning MABs, motor assisted bicycles, into fake motorcycles. Where I live the regs are under 50cc, under 2HP and under 25mph with a top attainable speed of 30mph. I can live with that given all the advantages that a MAB has to offer in terms of no insurance, no inspection, no motorcycle endorsement. I can ride anywhere except interstates, high speed state highways and bicycle paths. Not a problem, I just pick my routes. Also, one reason I have come to really like friction drive is in a couple seconds time I can kill the engine, raise the drive assembly and it becomes nothing more than a common bicycle able to go anywhere a regular bicycle can.

Also, for that reason I don't recommend or use the harbor freight engines at 79cc. Besides, for me they are too heavy and wide. At 25+ lbs, the HF engine is 3 times as heavy as the Subaru engines I use on the bikes I build. I think that's too heavy for a common bicycle frame. Also, their width at 12 to 13 inches plus the gear reduction hardware needed means you have to bend or have bent the pedal cranks to clear the engine and end up having to pedal kinda bow-legged.
Add Thank You Reply
#39
Willy
Couldn't agree more, we think the same on that.
Add Thank You Reply
#40
thanks guys, just got back from the motorcycle dealer for honda an yamaha, push some bike around the show room floor. and about the only one i can handle an sit on without tip toeing, was the yamaha xt250 the is the smallest duelsport bike they make.!! at least that what the saleman said. like i said its been forty years since i rode a motorcycle. so i'm going to have learn how to ride a motorcycle and go to school. so i can get a motorcycle license here in california. not cheap looking at around $6,000 to get started    5,100 for the bike and about 400.00 riding gear and aonther 350.00 for carry rack that fit in you 2" reciever hich. wow !!! this cheap rv living not to chaap!!. thanks again for the put, but the way gas prices are this maybe my dayly driver!!!. an i want something that is both street legal and i can get dirty an big enough to get out of way of other drivers while on the streets. fellow traveler gary   p.s i will youtube the bike and see what this duelsport riding is all about       
Add Thank You Reply


Forum Jump:


Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)

Powered By MyBB, © 2002-2018 MyBB Group.