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So my Cube van has a tilt on it, meaning the rear end is higher than the front, so my floor in the box is sloped to the front.

I am still planning my kitchen counter, stove sink etc, but the tilt concerns me.

The question, should I make my counter /stove parallel to the floor or parallel to the ground?

In the first instance, I would always have to find a slope to stop on, in the second instance as long as I'm on level ground
my counter should be level.
I could gimbal mount my stove, but not the counter/sink. lol

Any thoughts?
so does it have this tilt fully loaded? I would see how it sits fully loaded. more than likely the sitting higher in the back is because it's unloaded. once loaded it should sit level or closer to it. put some heavy stuff back there like you are loaded and see how it sits. highdesertranger
the rear springs were designed to haul a heavy load. Without one, it's not gonna have the proper 'sag' to it.

Either block up the front end, or take a few springs out of the back set.
My plan is to just take it as a sign that I need to buy more tools. I plan to hang water tanks, batteries, and tool boxes all along both sides of my shuttle. There's a lot of room once you remove that decorative skirt. Box trucks don't have the skirt so that just saved you a step.
Park on a hill.  Big Grin
(10-22-2015, 09:05 PM)ahh_me2 Wrote: [ -> ]So my Cube van has a tilt on it, meaning the rear end is higher than the front, so my floor in the box is sloped to the front.

I am still planning my kitchen counter, stove sink etc, but the tilt concerns me.

The question, should I make my counter /stove parallel to the floor or parallel to the ground?

In the first instance, I would always have to find a slope to stop on, in the second instance as long as I'm on level ground
my counter should be level.
I could gimbal mount my stove, but not the counter/sink. lol

Any thoughts?

I built everything parallel to the floor so that I could level the vehicle for parking. Ground is seldom completely level except in campsites that were properly designed (very few) and it's easier to level the whole vehicle with the sets of levelers on the market now than it is to constantly be trying to level various components in the living area.

I did however leave the means to raise each end of the top of my bed so that if I found myself, say in a parking lot, unable to level the van, I could at least level the bed somewhat for sleeping. Sleeping on a slope can be rather uncomfortable, cooking on a slope just means that the omelet is thicker on one side than the other... Rolleyes
How much difference? 3" or more then you may need to make a spring mod. But first, ........
It's a good idea to parallel everything to the floor. Once you have your stuff loaded and secured in a permanent location, as suggested, you can make adjustments to springs, etc. if necessary. Lots easier to level the whole vehicle later on for camping (parked with blocks) or driving (with springs).
I don't recall if you put new tires on it yet or not. That will add a height change too. Either way, the springs are older and I would expect them to squat more when you load her up full.
You could also use a pair of lightly angled wheel chalks to simply put under the front wheels when needed.
now might be a good time to start that anvil collection! Big Grin
Build parallel to the flloor. You might want to level your vehicle while you work on it. All the weight you add will impact it. We used our 2 ft X 3 ft framing squares when we converted the bus. Squared to the floor, then squared cabinets/partition walls to the sidewalls of the bus. I had to hide the level from my husband. He kept checking the level. The fact that nothing was perfectly plumb or level bothered him. Now that the weight is in, the bus sits level side to side and is out of level front to back by one degree normally (no leveling pads). Not bad for a 40 ft bus.


The manufactured Class C side walls were off 3/4" form each other. Didn't make a difference except for that one cabinet that ran the full width of the RV.
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