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What do you guys think about the spray foam inside your van approach?

It seems like a good idea.

Has any one done it? I am wondering about this because I think it will help alot with the heat here in California...

Vid:
[video]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QMopPtsSbDk&feature=player_detailpage[/video]

Kit: $197.00
http://www.sprayfoamdirect.com/products/...-34-detail

The Easy To Use Spray Foam Kit

  • 102 Board Feet (102 Square feet at 1 inch thickness) of spray foam insulation that's convenient and easy to use.
  • R-Value of 6.7 at 1 inch - 97% Closed Cell Foam.  Best wall, basement or attic insulation.
  • Class I E-84 Fire-Retardant - meets building code spec.
  • Shelf Life: 12 Months unopened, 1 Month Once Opened.
  • Expanding sealant creates Class 3 vapor retarder, controls air flow, and creates a tight building envelope.
  • Includes a pair of isocyanate resistant gloves, 10' hose assembly, 10 nozzles and 3 fan spray tips- everything you need to complete your insulating project.
  • Get the most control with the best gun in the business.
  • Comes with a Garden Hose Style Gun and 10' Hose.  If you can water your lawn you can seal and insulate your home.
  • Comes with Easy to Read Instructions and Foam Like A Pro Helpful Hints.
  • Includes 24/7 Customer Support so You Get the Results You're Really After.
  • Professional Results, Your Way, Fast.
  • Steel canisters pressurized with nitrogen for foam delivery.  No outside source of pressure or power is required.
  • 100% Free of CFC's, VOC's, Penta-BDE's, Urea Formaldehyde
  • Made in the USA
  • Great for crawlspace insulation, pool and spa insulation, marine floatation, and much much more.
  • A Fit-Tested Respirator Mask with Organic Vapor Filters and a Prefilter for Particulates is Required when Applying Spray Foam Insulation.
  • Ships Same or Next Day
  • Do not use for retro-filling - use the Slow Rise Formula instead.
  • 1 x 41 lb box (considered hazmat due to pressurized nitrogen).


Every van I ever had or assigned to me for any length of time - I filled all the seam panel's with Tough Stuff from Home Depot - to cut down on the rattling

Also every extension ladder I own - the hollow rung's had foam squirted into them --- there's nothing more annoying than a ladder singing at 60 MPH

I've used that commercial product or one exactly like it in new town house construction - filling in large gaps in the spaces left under the stairs / around garage doors - etc. The only problem I had with it --- I wasn't suited properly ---- I needed a belt sander to get it off my skin

When I was the building's maintance supervisor for Sunrise toyota in Oakdale -- their other stealer-ship is BMW of Oysterbay -- I put up a 4 bay steel building kit. Ran all the elect. - plumbing - gas lines for the Dayton space air heaters. After the town signed off on every thing - it was time for the insulation. I had a local insulation company come in and mask off and spray the whole building in one day. The next day one guy came back with a 3' wide pneumatic brush thingy on a stick - and brushed / scraped 99 % of the foam off the high spots.

When full sized bus time comes - ( thats what I'm leaning toward now ) ---- That's what I'm gonna do  
Something else I remembered --

Over at the Corvette Forum - some of the guy's spray foam into the body cavity's to cut down on the road noise coming through the FRP body work -- if they spray to much of the 3 X expanding foam they get the "Ball-Park-Frank" effect -- The body panel's tend to bulge out

But what some of them do is - shove a big lawn & leaf bag into the space first --- then spray the foam into that. It still expands to insulate the space - but - if for any reason the foam has to be removed - its a little E-Z-er without it sticking to everything inside the cavity.

Like the inside corners at a vans rear doors ( Brad  
Thank you!
This was informative.

I think the spray foam on a van would be excellent because it also cuts down on condensation that often comes with metal (at least here in Alaska).  I put a layer of spray foam on the walls of my 10x24 addition to my cabin...(its very difficult to get the layers even).  The can has to be 70 degrees or more...mine wasn't and expansion was decreased...and the stuff STICKS TO EVERYTHING.  I wore the white disposable paper suit. Many sets of latex gloves, protective glasses; everything was covered except my cheeks and they were pretty much gooed by the end of the 2-3 hrs it took me to spray...Its a messy job but the addition was AIR TIGHT.  I used fiberglass insulation to make up the remaining Rvalue.  Also, spray foam insulation is NOT CHEAP...but it is worth it if you've got the cash.  I'd recommend it to anyone. 
Rae

Spray insulation on your van really bad idea. Because it eats away at the metal from inside and it just block drain holes leaving consideration no place to go. I am not sure for this idea.
Doesn't the motion of the vehicle crack the foam?
Here is some great stuff foam I dug out from around my windshield with a significant amount of rusted steel adhered to it.  This metal was primed and painted before the expanding foam did what it does.
[Image: 036copy_zps57f419e1.jpg]

No doubt it seriously aggravated the rust situation.

The Kit in the original post might be safe, or it might be safe for as long as the drivetrain warranty lasts in a new vehicle, but 10/15 years down the road, some unfortunate soul might find the body rotting from the inside out.

I will not take the risk again.  No expando foam, no spray foam, no more chemicals to offgas and contaminate my living/sleeping quarters.  Even more reason why good ventilation should be considered in this lifestyle.

 I think we are all a little to willing to surround ourselves with marketing in a can in an attempt to improve some aspect of our existence, but in reality we might be impacting our health.

The long term effects of exposure  to the chemical cocktails, are unknown.

Just like all the pharmaceutical drugs you see advertised non stop when watching network news.
 
I agree with wrcsixeight.

However, I do wonder if there would be a difference in both the chemical off-gassing and the rust causing effects if you were to bag it in some way, like Ricekila mentions in post #3.
wrc

thanks for posting that pic...its shocking...

ill keep an eye out on the spots i applied it to my van.

was the rust caused by the foam/chemical itself? or was there a water leak that got trapped mechanically by the foam?

i think its an important distinction.

i didnt see any drain holes anywhere i put the stuff so for my application i wouldnt be worried about that vector...but a chemical one has me concerned for sure.


also, im curious as to why you had it around your windshield? did you insulate the cab or something? im curious because i had no plans to insulate cab (other than sound deadener and a carpet) but reading that got me thinking lol....a dangerous thing.
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