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I'm building out a 2013 Nissan NV2500 high roof and I can't seem to figure out what is the best way to connect plywood panels to the ceiling ribs? I have the body builder's guide for the van and it says the holes need a M8x1.25 bolt but I'm not sure how to connect it properly since I don't have access to the other side the ribs and some of the holes are rectangular.

I know this seems like a really simple solution I just can't to figure out the best way to approach it. Thanks in advance.

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(09-27-2017, 09:57 AM)thezenvan Wrote: [ -> ] I have the body builder's guide for the van and it says the holes need a M8x1.25 bolt but 

Instead  of trying to line up with the existing holes, just create new ones.  Use self-tapping screws (of the right length!) and just screw 'em in wherever they're needed.
I don't see any threaded holes in those ribs. I am not sure where you got your info, there must be more to it then that. maybe some type of insert that goes in the rib then the bolt screws into that. you could always use self drilling screws like RVtrek said. highdesertranger
On my NV, we used the pink panther board insulation stuff and attached the thin plywood panels with self tapping screws to the ribs.
There should be two threaded holes at the center of each crossmember, and four in the crossmember just behind the front seats. They may be painted over or have plugs in them that have to be removed. They won't be enough to mount the boards to, anyway, since you'll need screws at the sides of the ceiling as well. I'd just do what TVtrek suggests and get some self-tapping metal screws. Make sure they are short enough that they won't poke up through the top of the van.
You could use plus nuts. I used quite a few on my van. Drill a hole and tap the plus nut in. There is a tool to put the plus nut in. I bought one from McMaster Carr and it works well. Ordered the plus nuts online somewhere. It was a while ago so I would have to look it up.

Once the plus nuts go in you have a threaded hole to bolt things to. Much stronger I think then self tapping screws. Although it might take a few more minutes to drill a hole and set the plus nut.
Am I looking up at the roof? or at the wall with the ceiling having narrow ribs at the top of the picture ?
A length of 5/8 or 3/4" plywood about 6 inches wide could be cut so it is about 1 1/4 - 1 1/2" wider than that long opening in the ceiling ribs.
Two of these for each of the long openings, towards each end. Drill holes in the lip around the hole and insert a wood screw of suitable length to hold that wood against the inside of the rib.
Measure to where they are located and write down, or mark temporarily with tape & measurements.
When the large panel is cut to fit, you will know where to place you screws holding it in position.

If the skinny ribs at the top of the picture are the ones in question, you should first fasten a 1/2" or 3/4" sleeper over them to smooth the contour.
Use construction adhesive and self tapping metal screws into a slight recess so they don't bulge the panelling.
Cut that panelling to fit, tuck in a little more insulation, put a string of glue on the sleeper and place a nice woodscrew with bezel along where the sleeper lies about 10" apart.

Be very cautious about screw length !

Thanks for all the responses. I'm going to look at using the hollow wall anchors to see if it's possible to use the existing holes in the crossbeams instead of drilling new ones
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