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Full Version: 2002 Ford E250 with rust
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Just got an E250 extended and pulled up the floor to reveal some small rust spots and lots of drilled holes. What are my best options for a.) Filling existing holes b.) Paint to use to help keep the seals weather proof c.) Paint to use to stop rust.

 I am a newbie and this is my first build so I may have many more questions. TIA!
Well I figured out some stuff! Anyone who's interested.. got some 3M body repair mesh for the bigger hole and will put body filler over that. Then I'm putting silicone over all of the small holes and a bit of tape until it's dry. Going with some auto enamel by Rust-Oleum to spray paint finish the inside over the old rust spots. Hoping it goes well!
Rust is one of those living invasive cancer for metal things best you should do is keep it at bay. My father used naval jelly on his old jalopy My plan of action would be much like yours. But don't get too perturbed . My house is about 3 miles from the Pacific ocean and have always lived close to salt water. Just saying don't allow it to ruin your experience. Welcome aboard by the way.
got any pics? first thing is all the rust needs to go. cut it out, grind it off, treat it with rust converter. silicone is a poor choice for filling holes or for anything for that matter. highdesertranger
High desert ranger what would you recommend that I use to fill the holes? And does anyone know about how long a van will keep heat at night after bring insulated?
that's why I am asking for pics to see what we are dealing with. there is rust and then there is rust, you know what I mean Vern. highdesertranger
[Image: 5n0yg0.jpg]

That's the large hole I've been referring to. Bad pic but all I've got for now. Mostly surface rust elsewhere as it's a Colorado van.
So I'm really stumped on what to use for my floor, did the patch I mentioned on my small hole but now not sure what to use to fill the small holes in the base of the van.
I know it has been a while, but I watched a video where a fellow tested a bunch of glues.  JB Weld would be what I would use.  I am going to suggest this route to my mechanic.  He currently has our van for a trans flush, rear differential fluid and removing the chairs in the van.  We took the chairs out, but the footings require that the gas tank be lowered to remove the screws.  I was thinking he could use a smaller length screw and JB Weld to close the 3/4" holes. I was wondering what you decided upon.
That almost looks like a mechanical puncture in the pic, like someone dropped something heavy on it and sliced through the metal.  For sealants I'd suggest autobody seam sealer or some Dicor non-sag on both sides.  For a quick DIY, you could bond and Poprivit some thin sheet over the hole for a more substantive repair.  Body plastic and mesh won't stick for long because the rust keeps building underneath.  It will only hide the progression of rust and eventually chunk off at some point later.  If you can seal the repair from the back with some undercoat or seam sealer it helps it to stay put.  The idea is to starve the rust by denying it oxygen and moisture.  There are some pretty good paints you can use to cover over light rust.  POR-15 is one that works directly over and starves the rust but its pricey, about $45 a quart, goes on thick and dries fairly hard. Aluminum foil furnace tape is also a quick miracle repair that stays put for a long time and you can beef it up with multiple layers.
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